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About Jingchuan Pump Industry

Our company is a professional manufacturer specializing in the production of conventional and energy-saving variable frequency household pumps. Main products: shielded cold and hot water circulating pumps, shielded automatic booster pumps, special pumps for wall-hung boilers, multi-functional return water booster systems, automatic cold and hot water self-priming booster pumps......

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The products have quality certification, and selected materials with stable chemistry and indoor structure, which are green and environmentally friendly. 19 years of history, rich experience, talents and technology in production and research and development.

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Jingchuan News

2021

02-25

Gas wall-hung boilers have become the heating choice for more and more homes. Most users who have used wall-hung boilers know that wall-hung boilers need correct use and regular maintenance to better serve our heating and provide us with better heating. Use experience. As one of the core components of the wall-hung boiler, the water pump provides a stable pressure and flow rate for the stored heat carrier of the wall-hung boiler, that is, hot water, so as to achieve the purpose of heating and hot water use in the whole house. Therefore, the maintenance of the water pump is particularly important. Can you understand some of its failure causes and maintenance methods? Causes and analysis of failures Symptom 1: Does not start Failure analysis 1. The exhaust valve of the water pump is not opening and venting during water injection, 2. There is no demand for indoor temperature, 3. The voltage is too low, 4. The internal short circuit of the water pump, 5. The external wiring is loose, 6. The connecting wire is broken or the connector is not connected properly, 7. The water pump is stuck. Symptom 2: There is a "click" sound Failure analysis 1. Idling without water for a long time, 2. Solid impurities enter the water pump, 3. The blade is broken. Pump maintenance method The water pump does not run after power on, it is called "locking", which is a common situation of wall-hung boiler water pump, which often occurs after the wall-hung boiler has not been running for a long time. When this happens, you can try to solve it by yourself using the following methods. 1. Locate a large screw on the top of the water pump, use a large "one" screw to loosen it, and then use a suitable screw to loosen the inner shaft slowly. After the jamming phenomenon disappears, remove the outside. Tighten the big "one" screw. 2. Many wall-hung boiler products have the "locking" function of the waterproof pump that comes with the system. When the water and electricity three links are normal, the water pump will automatically run once every set time to prevent the occurrence of "locking". If you go out for a long time without people at home, you only need to adjust the boiler to operate at low temperature, do not disconnect the water and electricity, to ensure that the water pump in the system runs without hindrance. After a non-heating season, the heating pipes of wall-hung boilers are left unused, which is likely to produce impurities after rust and microbial precipitation. The water pump is an internal component of the wall-hung boiler. These impurities can easily hinder the operation of the water pump, causing it to jam, increase the noise, or even damage it. The ideal solution is to release and clean the water in the heating pipe when starting to use heating in winter, then install a fine-mesh filter at the backwater of the wall-hung boiler, and clean up the dirt in time . Limescale is the "culprit" of many wall-hung boilers. Limescale is the number one "killer" of water pumps. It can penetrate into every water-passing area inside the water pump, wear the water pump during operation, generate noise, and seriously cause the pump Stuck or burned out, making the boiler "paralyzed". Especially for areas with harder water, this problem occurs more frequently, so it is necessary to clean and descaling the boiler regularly.

2021

02-25

Gas stove countertops on the market are generally divided into stainless steel countertops, glass countertops, ceramic panels and enamel panels. The glass countertops in gas stoves are common and easy to clean. Splash oil after each use. After washing the dishes, use a scouring pad dipped in the detergent and wipe it off with a clean rag. Pay special attention when cleaning: Never use a steel wire to wipe the glass countertop. The strength of tempered glass is several times that of ordinary glass, mainly because of the protective layer (also called stress layer) on both sides of it, but the protective layer is very thin. Once it hits a harder object or cleans the surface with a steel wire, it is easy to scratch, the protective layer is damaged, the strength decreases, and the countertop is prone to bursting. In fact, in order to better protect the countertops of gas stoves, stainless steel countertops and enamel countertops should not be wiped with steel wire, so as not to affect the smoothness of the surface, just use a scouring pad or soft cloth dipped in washing and scrubbing.

2021

02-23

a) Unscrew the slotted copper screw on the end of the water pump, exhaust the air of the water pump, and restart. b) If the heating system distributor is not opened, open the distributor; if the filter is clogged, remove the filter, rinse it, and install it, make up water and exhaust, and restart. c) If there is air in the pipe and it is not exhausted, exhaust the air and restart. d) If the water flow switch fails, use a multimeter to detect whether there is a switch signal output during operation. If there is a signal output, that is, the water flow switch is turned on, it may be that the connector is not well connected or the wire is disconnected, then plug the connector or replace the wire; if the wire and the connector are intact, the controller is faulty, replace the controller . If there is no signal output, it means that the water flow switch is stuck or the waterway is blocked; if the water flow switch is stuck, remove the water flow switch to rinse and reinstall; and replenish water. Exhaust and restart again; waterway blockage is handled according to method b. e) Install a distributor (switch) at the heating water outlet, and turn off the distributor a bit smaller. Fan pressure failure ①Fault phenomenon: if the fan does not run or runs slowly, the controller will give an alarm, and the display will show the fan air pressure fault code. Causes of failure: a) The fan is stuck or burned out; b) The connector is in poor contact; c) The controller is faulty, d) The capacitor is damaged, and e) The mains voltage is too low. Solution: a) Check the fan with a multimeter, replace the fan when the circuit breaks, or replace the fan if it is stuck. b) The connector is in poor contact and reconnect it. c) If the controller fails, replace the controller. d) If the fan impeller can be started by pulling it by hand, the capacitor is damaged. Replace the capacitor. e) Install a voltage regulator to increase the mains voltage to 220V. ②Fault phenomenon: the fan is running normally, the controller does not ignite, the main controller gives an alarm, and the display shows the fault code as fan air pressure failure. The cause of the failure: a) the wind pressure switch is short-circuited, b) the wind pressure switch is not closed. c) Poor contact of the connector. d) The suction and exhaust ports are blocked. e) The controller is faulty. Solution: a) Check with a multimeter. If the wind pressure switch is closed before the fan starts, replace the work or adjust the wind pressure switch. b) If it is normal before the fan is started, but does not close after the fan is started, the air pressure switch can be adjusted. If the problem cannot be solved after the adjustment, replace the air pressure switch. ; Also check whether the venturi tube or the wind pressure tube is blocked. c) If the connector is in poor contact, reconnect it. d) If all the previous faults are eliminated, check whether the suction and exhaust are smooth or blocked; if the suction and exhaust are not smooth, clean the flue; if it is blocked, clean it. e) The faults of a, b, c, d have been eliminated, then check whether the pulse igniter connector is in contact

2021

02-25

First of all, for safety and security, at high frequencies, the rotor induced current will be very large to prevent the motor shaft current. If the electrically insulated bearing is not used, current will flow through the bearing to form a circulating current, and the bearing is likely to be damaged due to heat generation or electric water splash. Then when the motor is running, the potential difference between the two ends of the shaft or between the shaft and the bearing is called shaft voltage. If the two ends of the shaft form a loop through the motor frame, the shaft voltage forms the shaft current. The shaft current is generated by the shaft voltage through the motor shaft, bearing, stator frame or auxiliary device forming a closed loop. Under normal conditions, the shaft voltage of the motor is low, and the lubricating oil film in the bearing can play a role in insulation, and no shaft current will be generated. However, when the shaft voltage is high, or the oil film is not formed stably at the moment the motor starts, the shaft voltage will cause the lubricant film to discharge and break down to form a loop to generate shaft current. The high temperature generated by the release of partial discharge energy of shaft current can melt many small areas on the bearing inner ring, outer ring or ball, and form grooves, which will generate noise and vibration. If it is not found and handled in time, it will lead to bearing failure, which will bring damage to production. Great influence. The obvious feature of the electric corrosion of the high-frequency shaft current on the bearing in the frequency conversion speed regulation system is the production of "washboard" dense groove stripes on the inner and outer rings and balls of the motor bearing. The flashover caused by the induced current on the spindle and the bearing can cause defects such as corrosion on the bearing surface, shrinkage on the metal surface, and grooves on the rolling track of the bearing. One of the main characteristics of insulated bearings is that there is a very thin (um level) coating on the surface, which is responsible for electrical insulation and can resist electric flashover generated at a voltage exceeding 500V. A thicker coating can resist high voltage of 1000V. Discharge. Therefore, the motor must use an electrically insulated bearing at one end.

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